TRAVELCruise ship tours: Hurtigruten's MidnatsolNamed for the midnight sun, Hurtigruten's 1,000-passenger, 16,000-ton MS Midnatsol carries cars, cargo and passengers on a 1,330-mile journey along the Norwegian coast between Bergen in the southwest and Kirkenes, several hundred miles above the Arctic Circle near the Russian border.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol, seen here entering the port of Kjøllefjord, was launched in 2003 and is the newest of Hurigruten's three Millennium-class ships. It is one of 11 Hurtigruten vessels that sail the Western coast of Norway year-round.Laura BlyHurtigruten, Norwegian for "fast route" and formerly known as Norwegian Coastal Voyage, has been operating ships along the country's fjord region every day since 1893. Thanks to the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream, Norway's coastal waters even far north of the Arctic Circle remain free of ice year-round.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol calls at a total of 34 ports on the 12-day trip between Bergen and Kirkenes - including Vardø, shown here.Sailings and ports of call experienced at night on the northbound voyage are seen during the day on the return and vice versa.Laura BlyThe historic, hill-ringed city of Bergen, which receives about 90 inches of rain a year, serves as the southern terminus for the Midnatsol's coastal route.Laura BlyOne of the Midnatsol's most unusual - and most delicious - shore excursions is a "king crab safari" offered from Kirkenes. Participants take a boat to watch crabs being hauled from pots anchored deep in the fjord, then enjoy an all-you-can-eat feast at a rustic fishing cabin.Laura BlyThe new, starkly moving Steilneset Memorial in Vardø, designed by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and the French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, is dedicated to the victims of witchcraft trials held here during the 17th century. The memorial is an easy walk from the Midnatsol's dock.Laura BlyDuring Hurtigruten's early days, its ships carried mail and other cargo to areas difficult to access by land. Today, they still serve as a convenient way for locals to travel from point to point - including this young boy, whose aunt was seeing him (and his antlers) off on a trip to visit his father four hours away.Laura BlyWatching cargo being loaded and unloaded at each port - from electronics to vintage wooden skiffs - is a popular activity among Hurtigruten passengers. And calls are often brief - as short as 15 minutes.Laura BlyPassengers gather on the top deck of the Midnatsol for ringside views of the Trollfjord, a narrow, steep-sided inlet to which Hurtigruten ships often make a scenic detour, weather permitting.Laura BlySince Hurigruten ships make so many stops, cabin vistas often include scenes like this one in Kristiansund's busy harbor.Laura BlyA view of the nearby coastline is reflected in an outside cabin porthole on the Midnatsol's promenade Deck 6, which wraps completely around the ship.Laura BlyDespite Norway's often nippy weather, the Midnatsol's two sun deck hot tubs are popular gathering spots - including at night during the winter, when the Northern Lights are often visible.Laura BlyA view of the ship's second hot tub and outdoor shower, located on Deck 9.Laura BlyNorway's Viking heritage and prodigious bird life is reflected in this traditional wall sculpture on the top sun deck.Laura BlyA giant chess set greets passengers on the Midnatsol's sun deck.Laura BlyAfternoon delight: A Midnatsol staffer offers traditional Norwegian waffles with fruit preserves and cream.Laura BlyDress on board the Midnatsol is strictly casual - though wool sweaters and Norway-made Helly Hensen jackets outnumber sleeping bags as cold-weather attire.Laura BlyCrossing the Arctic Circle is always cause for celebration, with ceremonies that differ depending on which direction the ship is headed. The southbound version, shown here, includes a spoonful of cod liver oil followed by a chaser of cloudberry liqueur.Laura BlyThis sun deck bar, open during the warmer months, is one of two bars on the Midnatsol.Laura BlyA view of the Midnatsol's front reception area, which includes prominent portraits of Norway's King Harald and Queen Sonja.Laura BlyTrolls are ubiquitous in Norway - and this one, on Deck 5 near the ship's 24-hour, self-service Midtsommer Cafe, serves as a popular photo op.Laura BlyAn artistic depiction of Norway's Northern Lights greets passengers in Midnatsol's contemporary, five-deck atrium.Laura BlyA model of the MS Midnatsol is located in a seating area of the Midtsommer Cafe.Laura BlyAnother seating area is located near the ship's 24-hour cafe.Laura BlyLight woods, warm colors and glass dominate the decor on board the Midnatsol, including the Information Center where passengers can explore shore excursion options.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's handsome library, with floor-to-ceiling windows, includes a selection of jigsaw puzzles and board games.Laura BlyA signature feature of Midnatsol and her sister ship, the MS Trollfjord, is a two-level Observation Lounge located on the top decks at the bow.Laura BlyTwo "point to point" passengers catch a few winks on the lower level of the Midnatsol's Observation Lounge.Laura BlyWhile the Midnatsol's Mysterier Bar includes a piano and small dance floor, standard cruise ship-type diversions are noticeably absent on Hurtigruten ships.Laura BlyFloor-to-ceiling windows, even in the ship's stairwells, provide ample opportunities to admire the passing scenery.Laura BlyThe excursion desk on the Midnatsol, where excursions are offered in Norwegian, German, French and English. Though many port calls are short, passengers can rejoin the ship at a port further along the route.Laura BlyArtwork in the Midtsummer Cafe seating area on Deck 5 reflects the long maritime history of Hurtigruten, which has been plying the Norwegian coasts since 1893.Laura BlyThe cozy Hamsun Room on Deck 8 is named is named for Norwegian Knut Hamsun, Nobel prize winner for literature in 1920.Laura BlyChef Anders Gøransson demonstrates how to peel -and eat - a just-caught shrimp. It was part of a catch delivered to the Midnatsol by a local fisherman earlier that evening as the ship sailed to Tromsø.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's 24-hour, self-service cafe offers a la carte items (a shrimp salad plate costs about $12) and is available to both full-cruise passengers and those using the ship for point-to-point transportation.Laura BlyThe entrance to the Midnatsol's dining room, which serves full-cruise passengers with open-seating, buffet-style breakfast and lunch and two assigned seatings for dinner.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol dining room offers tables for two, four, six and eight. Set, three-course dinner menus (soup or salad, main dish and dessert) emphasize fresh local fish such as cod and salmon.Laura BlyA view of the Midnatsol's buffet.Laura BlyAlcoholic beverages are taxed heavily in Norway, so wine, beer and hard liquor prices are steep: $11 for a glass of beer, or nearly $13.50 for a glass of house wine.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's lunch buffet includes many Norwegian and Scandinavian foods - including three kinds of herring (mustard, sherry, and sour cream).Laura BlyThe Midnatsol charges full-cruise passengers for coffee and tea outside meal times, but also sells mugs that are good for unlimited refills.Laura BlyBartender Vanessa Caqueiro shows off a few selections of aquavit, one of Scandinavia's traditional liqueurs.Laura BlyThe Paradis Bar, located on the starboard side of Deck 8, is near the ship's central atrium.Laura BlyThe Mysterier Bar, also on Deck 8, is decorated in shades of blue and green.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's gift shop stocks everything from postcards (which can be stamped to commemorate an Arctic Circle crossing) to foul weather jackets and cod liver pâté.Laura BlyThough Midnatsol passengers (about 10% Americans) tend to be middle-aged and older, the ship does have a small children's play area near the Midtsummer Cafe.Laura BlySeating areas on either side of the Midnatsol's conference facilities on Deck 5 serve as quiet spots to relax.Laura BlyThe carpets in passenger cabins reflect the Midnatosol's surroundings and heritage - including Viking ships.Laura BlyThe ship features 11 categories of cabin accommodations, including outside doubles that range from 75- to 140-square-feet.Laura BlyStandard Mindnatsol cabins, like this one, feature twin beds.Laura BlyBathrooms in both outside and inside cabins are almost identical, and feature showers with adjustable heads and liquid soap/shampoo.Laura BlyCabin bathrooms include ample shelves and wall-mounted hair dryers.Laura BlyDesk areas in both outside and inside cabins feature shallow shelves for additional storage.Laura BlyTeak-toned shelves and closet in an outside cabin are roomy enough to hold bulky sweaters and storm jackets.Laura BlyThough it may not be obvious to non-Norwegians, this button turns on a bathroom floor warmer - just the ticket on cooler days.Laura BlyAmerican passengers need to bring a two-pin adapter plug for the Midnatsol cabins, which run on 220 volts A.V.Laura BlyView of a cozy inside cabin, which measures from 65- to 108-square-feet. This carpet design depicts a puffin bird.Laura BlyOnly suites and inside cabins come with televisions, but the telephones in all cabins double as a radio and public address system for ship announcements, including upcoming port calls.Laura BlyCabin beds can also be converted into couches, and include crisp white duvets.Laura BlyA view of a hallway leading to some of the Midnatsol's 24 suites.Laura BlyOnly five of the Midnatsol's 24 suites have a private balcony, including this Grand Suite.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's Grand Suites, which include a sitting area and separate bedroom, range from 377- to 398-square-feet.Laura BlyThe desk area of a Grand Suite.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's Grand Suites feature large walk-in showers, marble sinks and upgraded soaps and shampoo.Laura BlyThe entertainment area of a Grand Suite, which includes a television and minibar.Laura BlyRegular suites on the Midnatsol range from 301- to 323-square-feet.Laura BlyThe entry area of a Midnatsol suite features gleaming wood and, in some categories, a separate walk-in closet.Laura BlyMany Midnatsol suites include a separate shower and large bathtub.Laura BlyThe Midnatsol's suites come with in-cabin coffee makers, but standard cabins do not. Room service is available only to suite passengers for an extra charge.Laura BlyIn lieu of a balcony, the 10 Grand Suites on Deck 8 offer a large bay window.Laura BlyMini-suites like this one, located on Deck 6, measure from 194 to 215 square feet.Laura BlyOne of four handicap-accessible cabins on the Midnatsol.Laura BlyThe bathroom of a handicap-accessible cabin, which are located near an elevator on Deck 6.Laura BlyFree (albeit sporadic) WiFi is available in Midnatsol's cabins and public areas, and the ship also offers Internet-enabled computers midship on Deck 8.Laura BlyThe ship's sauna, located next to the gym on Deck 9, features expansive views.Laura BlyA small fitness room on the Midnatsol features treadmills and weights.Laura BlyWhile the Midnatsol doesn't offer pressing or dry cleaning - and its casual, expedition-style ambiance doesn't call for dresses or jackets - it does provide a self- service laundry room.Laura BlyThe most comprehensive Norway cruises — 34 ports of call including several above the Arctic Circle — are operated by Hurtigruten.Hurtigruten